Jenny Sweater


kr 1.375,20 kr 1.689,60
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Yarn kit for Jenny Sweater from PetiteKnit. With this yarn option, the jumper is knitted in 1 strand 4-ply Pure Merino Wool together with 1 strand Lace mohair/silk. Unfortunately, we do not have the rights to sell the pattern, but you can find it here:

If you want to knit the sweater longer than the pattern suggests, either on the body or the sleeves, you must go up a size.

The Jenny Sweater is worked in the round from the bottom up with raglan decreases on the yoke. Body and sleeves are worked separately to the armholes and then joined on the circular needle for the yoke. The neckline is shaped by working back and forth on the needles, while binding off stitches. The neckline ribbing is knitted at the end from stitches that are picked up.

Begin by knitting a swatch to check that you have the correct gauge before beginning the project.

Size guide

The Jenny Sweater is designed to have approx. 19 cm [7½ inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to be approx. 19 cm [7½ inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) cm [30½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) inches].

The measurements for the finished garment are on the front page of the pattern. Before beginning your project, measure yourself with a measuring tape around your bust (or your widest upper body part) to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 109 cm [43 inches] which in the given example would give you 19 cm [7½ inches] of positive ease. If you are between two sizes, I recommend choosing the smaller size, as the smock pattern will stretch slightly with wear.

Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL)

Bust circumference: 104 (109) 114 (119) 129 (139) 149 (158) cm [41 (43) 45 (46¾) 50¾ (54¾) 58¾ (62¼) inches]

Length: 61 (62) 63 (63) 65 (67) 69 (70) cm [24 (24½) 24¾ (24¾) 25½ (26½) 27¼ (27½) inches] measured mid back incl. neck edge

Gauge: Smock pattern: 30-31 sts x 25-26 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] on a 4 mm [US6] needles, after wash and blocking

Rib (k2, p1): 25 sts x 27 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] on a 3.5 mm [US4], after wash and blocking

Needles: Circular needles: 3.5 mm [US4] and 4 mm [US6] / 40, 60, 80 and 100 or 120 cm [16, 24, 32 and 40 or 47 inches]; Double-pointed needles: 3.5 mm [US4] and 4 mm [US6] ((if not using the Magic Loop technique)

Difficulty: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ (5 out of 5)

 

More information:

 

4-ply Pure Merino Wool

Extrafine merino wool is used for this yarn so that it feels soft and gentle on the skin. The yarn is spun with extra long fibers to produce a yarn that is flexible and strong with a silky feel and shine. It is incredibly soft and elastic, and the threads are twisted in such a way that it gives extra strength to the yarn.


Other information:


100% extrafine merino wool, superwash treated


Lace mohair/silk

Mohair's softness depends primarily on the quality of the fibers. Superkid mohair comes from the first sorting, and is the softest and thinnest fibers you get from the mohair goat. The second sort is usually what is called kid mohair, and is also soft, but not as soft as the superkid mohair. Superkid mohair can be used close to the skin, and provides incredibly light and airy garments. The silk gives the yarn a lovely, exclusive mother-of-pearl sheen.

Other information:

75% superkid mohair/25% mulberry silk

Advice when knitting with hand-dyed yarn
Hand-dyed yarn, as the name suggests, is a craft, and there will be differences between skeins. This means that it is not necessarily just a matter of unraveling the yarn and starting to knit. Now, we're not going to make it more complicated than it needs to be, but there are a few things that might be good to know before you get started.

We recommend that you knit every other round from different skeins to camouflage any color differences. The more colorvariety in the yarn, the more important is this. Kimmie Munkholm shows this nicely when knitting circular in this video, and when you knit back and forth in this video.

If you don't want to knit every other round from different skeins (this is done at your own risk 😉), it is recommended to do this a few rounds when changing yarn. This applies regardless of the color of the yarn.
Wash and care of garments knitted in hand-dyed yarn
We recommend hand washing followed by a quick spin, or wool wash program if you trust your washing machine. Use ONLY detergent intended for wool/silk (Milo or such). Feel free to add a little clear vinegar - this helps preserve the colors. Do not soak the garment.

Please note that the yarn may contain excess colour. Therefore, wash separately the first time.

All knitted garments should be stored flat.