April Cardigan


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Yarn kit for April Cardigan from PetiteKnit. With this yarn option, the cardigan is knitted in 1 strand 3-ply Sustainable Merino Wool held together with 1 strand Lace mohair/silk. 4 horn buttons are included; the picture shows an example. Unfortunately, we do not have the rights to sell the pattern, but you can find it here:

If you want to knit the cardigan longer than the pattern suggests, either on the body or the sleeves, you’ll need to choose a larger size.

The April Cardigan has a V-neckline and is worked from the top down. The first part of the yoke is worked with shoulder increases on both RS and WS rows. The next part is worked with sleeve increases and the final part with classic raglan increases. At the same time, increases are worked along the front edges to shape the V-neckline. The sleeves are worked in the round on double-pointed needles or on a circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. At the end, stitches are picked up and knitted along the fronts, shoulders and back of neck, and a ribbed front edge with buttonholes is worked. Begin by working a swatch to determine which needle size you need to achieve the correct gauge.

Size guide

The April Cardigan is designed to have approx. 6-8 cm [2¼-3¼ inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to be 6-8 cm [2¼-3¼ inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm [31½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches]. The measurements for the finished garment are on the front page of the pattern (note that these measurements are only achieved if the design is knitted in the correct gauge). Before beginning your project, measure yourself with a measuring tape around your bust or your widest upper body part to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm [35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size S. A size S sweater has a bust circumference of 97 cm [38¼ inches] which in the given example would give you 7 cm [2¾ inches] of positive ease.

Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL

Bust circumference: 91 (97) 101 (106) 118 (127) 137 (146) 158 cm [35¾ (38¼) 39¾ (41¾) 46½ (50) 54 (57½) 62¼ inches]

Length: 53 (54) 55 (57) 59 (60) 61 (62) 63 cm [20¾ (21¼) 21¾ (22½) 23¼ (23½) 24 (24½) 24¾ inches] (measured mid back incl. neck edge)

Gauge: 21 sts x 28 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 4 mm [US6] needles after wash and blocking

Needles: Circular needles: 4 mm [US6] / 60 and 80 and/or 100 cm [24 and 32 and/or 40 inches], 3 mm [US2½] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches], and 3.5 mm [US4] 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches]; Double-pointed needles: 3.5 mm [US4] and 4 mm [US6] 

Difficulty: ★ ★ ★ ★ (4 out of 5)

More information

3-ply Sustainable Merino Wool:

A yarn that is as close to its natural origins as possible. No superwash treatment, just a wash to remove the grease and dirt from the fleece then combed for spinning. A great choice for those looking for a luxurious, non superwash, no nylon yarn.

🐑 100% extrafine merino wool
✔️ Untreated

🥢 2.5 mm (US 1.5)
👕 30 st/10 cm (4")
🧶 100 g = 533 m (583 yds) 


Lace mohair/silk:

Mohair's softness depends primarily on the quality of the fibers. Superkid mohair comes from the first sorting, and is the softest and thinnest fibers you get from the mohair goat. The second sort is usually what is called kid mohair, and is also soft, but not as soft as the superkid mohair. Superkid mohair can be used close to the skin, and provides incredibly light and airy garments. The silk gives the yarn a lovely, exclusive mother-of-pearl sheen.

The yarn is thin, so it is very suitable as a companion thread for e.g. many of PetiteKnit's designs. This yarn is well suited for ego knitting and children's knitting.

🐐 75% superkid mohair / 25% mulberry silk
✔️ Untreated

🥢 3-5 mm (US 2.5-8)
👕 18-24 st / 10 cm (4")
🧶 50 g = 420 m (459 yds)

 

Advice when knitting with hand-dyed yarn
Hand-dyed yarn, as the name suggests, is a craft, and there will be differences between skeins. This means that it is not necessarily just a matter of unraveling the yarn and starting to knit. Now, we're not going to make it more complicated than it needs to be, but there are a few things that might be good to know before you get started.

We recommend that you knit every other round from different skeins to camouflage any color differences. The more colorvariety in the yarn, the more important is this. Kimmie Munkholm shows this nicely when knitting circular in this video, and when you knit back and forth in this video.

If you don't want to knit every other round from different skeins (this is done at your own risk 😉), it is recommended to do this a few rounds when changing yarn. This applies regardless of the color of the yarn.
Wash and care of garments knitted in hand-dyed yarn
We recommend hand washing followed by a quick spin, or wool wash program if you trust your washing machine. Use ONLY detergent intended for wool/silk (Milo or such). Feel free to add a little clear vinegar - this helps preserve the colors. Do not soak the garment.

Please note that the yarn may contain excess colour. Therefore, wash separately the first time.

All knitted garments should be stored flat.